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| Heat, by Bill Buford |
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The Still
August 14, 2006
Cooking Is Seductive
I have been reading Bill Buford's Heat over the past few weeks. It is a very entertaining read; I highly recommend it. Buford uses an excert from the Jonathan Reynolds' play, Dinner with Demons to initiate his "Kitchen Slave" section:
Serendipitously, I found that a man cooking turned out to be seductive. I'd invite a woman over for dinner--let's call her Mary Alice. I put on some Erroll Garner, then some Miles Davis, then "Moonglow" and the theme from Pinic, the most romantic music I know from the most romantic love scene ever filmed, and brought out the first course which I'd made beforehand--shrimp Rothschild, which is hollowed-out loaves of bread sauteed in clarified butter, then filled with shrimp braised in fish stock for just a couple of minutes, the stock reduced parctically to a syrup, topped off in the oven with some Gruyere and a slice of truffle. I brought it to her.
"Oh," she said and followed me back to the kitchen where I put together the tournedos Rossini--small filets of beef topped with foie gras, a truffle slice, and a Maderia reduction.
"Ah." She begain asking very detailed questions about what I was doing and who I was.
What cinched it was a spectacular creation called Le Talleyrand. You make it with canned cherries of all things and ground almonds and sugar, cover them with a meringue, and in the meringue you put half an empty eggshell, bake it, and for the spectacular part you turn off the lights, ignite a little kirsch or rum, pour it into the eggshell when it comes out of the oven all browned, and it looks like a small volcano--which is where things can get very moist.
Mary Alice's eyes were limpid and beseeching. "You're the deepest and most complex man I know, and I love your knowledge and your fingers...but I made another date tonight at ten." And off she went to spend the night with another guy. All my work went to benefit him! And he never even called to thank me.
I find myself getting a little turned on from Reynolds' menu for the night. The dessert especially. What is it about simple desserts?
It reminds me of the way I was taught to make bananas foster. You dim the lights while the rum is ignited and sprinkle a little ground cinnamon over the flame. Some of the cinnamon will fall to the pan, and some will give off a nice amber color in the flame from the rum.
Posted by kyle at August 14, 2006 10:15 PM